LECTURE NOTES:FASHION AS PHOTOGRAPY//OUGD401

FASHION AS PHOTOGRAPHY:
catalogue:

ghost mannequin, creating the  invisible mannequin effect:

FIRST PERMANENT PHOTOGRAPHS:

Nicephore Niepce's earliest surviving photograph of a scene from nature, Circa 1826, 'View from the window at Le Gras,' Saint-loup-de-Varennes (France)

the first permanent photograph was taken in France in 1826

not reproducible photography

William Henry Fox Talbot

• Invented a fixing process

• Calotype – process using silver nitrate (as in black and white negative used in chemical processing today)

Lady Alice Mary Kerr's Portrait of Wilfrid Scawen Blunt, c.1870 

Virginia Oldoini, Countess di Castiglione, photographed by Adolphe Braun, 1856 

AGE OF THE FASHION MAGAZINE:

-Improvements in the halftone printing (dot) process means photographs can be reproduced in magazines

-First ten years of the 1900’s
-Before this drawn illustrations were used. 

PETERSON'S MAGAZINE PLATE, 1888

Paul Poiret (1879-1944)

House of Worth (Charles Worth, father of haute couture)

Freedom from corsetry

Signature shapes- hobble skirt, harem pants

Clothing cut along straight lines

Influenced by antique dress-draping

Paul Poiret (20 April 1879, Paris, France – 30 April 1944, Paris) was a French fashion designer. His contributions to twentieth-century fashion have been likened to Picasso's contributions to twentieth-century art.
La Mode Pratique, 1938  

Vogue vs Harpers Bazaar
-Leaders in fashion photography in the 1920’s and 30’s
-Horst P. Horst for Vogue
-Cecil Beaton for British Vogue 

Cecil Beaton (1904- 1980)
• British Vogue and Vanity Fair
• Photographed and was a member of the “Bright Young Things” of the 1920’s/30’s
• Photographed British Royals
• Prolific diarist
• designed sets, costumes, and lighting for Broadway 

Sir Cecil Walter Hardy Beaton, CBE (14 January 1904 – 18 January 1980) was an English fashion and portrait photographer, diarist, painter, interior designer and an Academy Award-winning stage and costume designer for films and the theatre. He was named to the International Best Dressed List Hall of Fame in 1970.//wiki

Vivien Leigh for Vogue, mid 1930’s

Lee Miller (1907-1977)

Photographed by Steichen

American photographer and fashion model at age 19 

photographer

-Goes to Paris in 1929 with photographer Man Ray

-Involved in the surrealist movement in photography

This image: •Photograph of Eileen

Agar, Brighton, England 1937 

Louise Dahl Wolfe

1936 to 1958 Dahl-Wolfe was a staff

fashion photographer at Harper’s Bazaar.

1958-1960 Dahl-Wolfe worked as a freelance photographer for Vogue

“Environmental” fashion photography 

DAVID BAILEY:

David Royston Bailey CBE (born 2 January 1938) is an iconic figure who is regarded as one of the best British photographers.  Born in the East End, he became a photographic assistant at the John French studio, then photographer for John Cole's Studio Five before being contracted as a fashion photographer for British Vogue magazine in 1960. Along with Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy, he captured and helped create the 'Swinging London' of the 1960s. In 2012, the BBC made a film of the story of his classic 1962 New York photoshoot with Jean Shrimpton.

Richard Avedon (1923 -2004)

• Harpers Bazaar till 1966
• Vogue 1966 onwards
• The book ‘In the American West’ 

Juergen Teller (1964- )

•German photographer

•Photos in The Face, Vogue

•Has workred with Vivien Westwood and Mar Jacobs

•Works with musicians •Annie Morton , 1996 

Corrine Day (1965-2010)

•British fashion photographer and model

•Worked for the Face and Vogue

•Vogue cover with Kate Moss credited with the beginnings of the trend for the ‘waif’ look. 

Adobe Photoshop -digital image manipulation-graphics editing programme-2003

Nick Knight

•UK photographer

•Worked with Yohji Yammamoto in the 90’s and with Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior

•Shots for Vogue, Vanity Fair, Another Magazine